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Vieques, Puerto Rico

A beach town with a horse problem

Full disclosure: My son planned his wedding on this small island off the coast of San Juan, Puerto Rico, and because of the pandemic it took three tries before it finally came together.
Swings along the beach on the Esperanza side of the island (left). Horses on the beach (top right). On approach with Cape Air (right).
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Swings along the beach on the Esperanza side of the island (left). Horses on the beach (top right). On approach with Cape Air (right).

It was worth the wait. The ceremony was magical, and I am proud of him and his beautiful bride for their perseverance.

It’s always an adventure flying into the islands, and a joy to witness the small airlines, such as Cape Air—and their young pilots—who ply their trade carrying tourists into these remote spaces. It’s also amusing (in a lighthearted way) to fly with others who don’t get to experience “small” airplanes as often as GA aircraft owners and pilots do. Back in 2021 on a trip to St. Croix, we ran into weather and had to circle the island, and my friend was near tears. And while it was a barely 30-minute calm flight to Vieques, the passenger beside me had white knuckles gripping his seat and kept his eyes closed for the flight. Too bad, because he missed some beautiful scenery.

Isla de Vieques is just seven miles off the east coast of Puerto Rico; its name translates to “small island” or sometimes “little sister” island. The stunning island is just 20 miles long and 4.5 miles wide. Bring it up with old timers and you’ll hear: “That place the Navy bombed?” Because, yes, for 60 years the U.S. Navy bombed this poor island, and it wasn’t until 2003 that it ended, and the U.S. Navy pulled out (no political discussions here) and now the area is a wildlife refuge. Dotted with gorgeous beach coves, the island is home to the brightest bioluminescent bay in the world.

Antonio Rivera Rodríguez Airport (VQS) is a very big name for a little airport. It has one 4,300-foot-long runway with a stunning approach. In addition to Cape Air, there is the Vieques Air Link. You’ll need a car or a golf cart. Cars are hard to get over to the island (there is a very busy ferry) so the golf cart became an easy solution. The two towns—Esperanza and Isabel II on opposite sides of the island—are linked by single lane roads. These roads have many potholes and an abundance of free-range horses who, we learn, are disrespectful of cars (what? Me move?) and particularly unfriendly to golf carts (they’ve been known to kick).

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Julie Walker
Julie Summers Walker
AOPA Senior Features Editor
AOPA Senior Features Editor Julie Summers Walker joined AOPA in 1998. She is a student pilot still working toward her solo.

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