The Courchevel Altiport

The challenges of flying in and out of the Courchevel “Altiport” are many, but the reward is high, too. The scenic airport in the midst of the French Alps is unique, and its lessons about mountain flying, aeronautical decision-making, airspeed control, and landing placement can be applied elsewhere.

My introduction to Courchevel (LFLJ) takes place under ideal conditions: A cold and clear winter day with unlimited visibility and light and variable surface winds. My guide is Jean-Marie Urlacher, a French pilot/aviation writer/photographer who knows the region well, and we’re flying a two-seat Bristell XL8 an energetic, 141-horsepower light sport aircraft with an approach speed of just 60 knots.

“Don’t even begin an approach at Courchevel if there’s a tailwind,” Urlacher says during our flight there. “But once you’re on the approach, at a certain point, you’re committed to land because there’s no possibility for a safe go-around. The terrain rises too steeply for that.”

Courchevel is limited to day VFR operations, and there’s a published procedure for landing that makes for hair-raising reading.

First, the runway itself is only 1,758 feet long. All landings are on Runway 22, and takeoffs are on Runway 4 no matter the winds. There’s an 18.66-percent uphill grade when landing, a steep, cliff-like embankment at the approach end of the runway, and snowdrifts on both sides. Also, the sun angle when landing on winter afternoons can sharply reduce depth perception.

Even though the runway itself is short, one end is a remarkable 205 feet higher than the other.

Because of the mountainous terrain, the landing pattern at Courchevel is nonstandard. The flight service station at the airport is closed on the day we arrive, so the VFR procedure requires overflying the airport, turning northeast over a steep, glacial valley, then making a teardrop pattern to align with Runway 22.

Overflying the airport allows us to see the runway surface, which has patches of snow and ice, and check for traffic. Thankfully, there’s none.

The wide, teardrop pattern feels much like an IFR procedure turn, and Urlacher descends to 7,000 feet (about 500 feet agl) and configures the airplane for landing. We roll out on a roughly four-mile final and the runway stands out against the white mountainside.

The wind arrows on the Garmin G3X primary flight/multifunction display confirm light winds at pattern altitude as Urlacher announces our position on the radio.

“From this point on, we’re committed to land,” he says.

The first quarter of the runway is relatively flat, so Urlacher concentrates on touching down in the first 300 feet. The steep slope of the runway creates an illusion that leads pilots to fly too low on final.

A windsock near the threshold confirms calm conditions, and the touchdown itself is right on target. Urlacher must add engine power to keep the airplane rolling up the steep hill.“Don’t even begin an approach at Courchevel if there’s a tailwind. But once you’re on approach, at a certain point, you’re commited to land because there’s no possibility for a safe go-around. The terrain rises too steeply for that.”—Jean-Marie Urlacher

We shut down on the icy ramp and go inside the airport office. There, Urlacher shows me a binder containing sad photos depicting the aftermath of multiple mishaps that have taken place at Courchevel over the years. Damaged and destroyed airplanes range from single-engine Robins and Emeraudes to Twin Otters.

“Every pilot who flies here should be aware of the hazards,” he says. “It keeps you from getting cocky.”

In contrast to the busy approach and landing on Runway 22 at Courchevel, the takeoff from Runway 4 is fun. Unlike summer when density altitude can drastically reduce performance, this winter day is dry and a couple degrees below freezing.

We line up at the top, add full engine power, then accelerate down the steep grade like it’s a ski jump. The airplane’s tires are off the paved surface in less than 600 feet, and Urlacher follows the descending slope of the runway as the airplane accelerates. Then he starts a climbing left turn to follow the valley northward.

“I’ve been lucky enough to fly all over the world and there’s no airport I’ve ever seen quite like this one,” he says. “I’ve got to the point where I’m quite comfortable flying here, but I never want to become complacent.”

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