Historic Galveston Island

Flying into the 92-year-old Scholes International Airport (GLS), it’s easy to see why. Sand and surf extend for 32 miles in either direction, dotted along the way by cabins, luxury homes, mom-and-pop motels, and four-star resorts.

It’s safe to say that most visitors arriving in Galveston today come with one primary thing in mind: a beach escape to warm Gulf waters, island breezes, and perhaps a fruity drink under a big umbrella. But look beyond Galveston’s seawall and you’ll discover a city with charm, beauty, and fascinating stories from its past.

From destruction to beachy delight

The Great Storm of 1900, the worst natural disaster ever recorded in North America, roared ashore here with little warning, leaving destruction and more than 6,000 deaths in its path. The city resolved to rebuild, and over the next eight years, it raised most of the island 17 feet to create Seawall Boulevard spanning 500 city blocks. Seawall today is a bustling promenade with sandy beaches on one side and hotels, shops, and eateries on the other.

If you want to be in the heart of the beach action, settle into accommodations along Seawall. The modern four-star San Luis Resort there belies its own history. Situated on one of the four major military batteries built to protect the island from attack during World War II, the hotel enjoys elevated, unobstructed ocean views from each of its 248 rooms. Arriving by helicopter? Guests can land at the resort’s heliport (8XS5) before being whisked away to a poolside lounger or VIP villa.

A history buff’s delight

Take a break from the sun and sand with self-guided tours of Galveston’s beautiful nineteenth-century mansions and museums. Start your stroll by powering up with an old-fashioned milkshake from the soda fountain at Star Drug Store. Opened in 1917, and having survived fire and hurricane, it is the oldest pharmacy in Texas.

Walk a few blocks to the Rosenberg Library Museum, which houses artifacts from Texas’ early history as well as an exhibit on the Great Storm of 1900. The nearby Moody Mansion tells the story of one of Galveston’s most prominent families, who bought the property from its original owners just after the storm. Visitors can tour 20 rooms in the 28,000-square-foot, four-story mansion, which remained home to the family until 1983.

In Galveston’s East End Historic District you’ll find the 1892 Bishop’s Palace, considered one of the most significant Victorian residences in the country. Get a rare look at some of its off-limits rooms in a tour but put your walking shoes on; there are about 100 stairs to climb!

If all that walking has built up an appetite, head over to Maceo Spice & Import, another historic landmark with a dash of culinary delights. Once inside the unassuming storefront, you’ll be greeted with shelves overflowing with fresh spices and specialty import foods. While waiting for your order of gumbo or one of the famous muffalettas, browse the photos and memorabilia on the walls tracing the store’s history back to 1944. 

A tribute to transportation

At the edge of the historic Strand District lies another fascinating look into the past, the Galveston Railroad Museum. Here you can walk through restored railcars, learn the little-known stories of the Orphan Trains that brought orphans westward from New York, and try your hand as a conductor in the museum’s simulator.

In 1932, Scholes Field consisted of two runways made primarily of crushed seashells.Even the airport is teeming with lore. Scholes International Airport, known as Scholes Field (GLS), first opened in 1932 to support the city’s thriving entertainment venues. Named for its first airport manager Bob Scholes, it consisted of two runways made primarily of crushed seashells. In 1942, the U.S. Army re-designated the airfield for World War II, improving runways and adding facilities. After the war, the city reassumed ownership, building the current terminal building, at the time perhaps the finest example of airport architecture. In 2008, Hurricane Ike covered the airport with 12 feet of storm surge, damaging 33 aircraft and the terminal, and destroying most of its hangars. The terminal was renovated and reopened in 2011.

Sue Durio is a freelance writer and aviation enthusiast who flies with her husband in their Cessna 310.